Art in Singapore: History + Culture

Let's put aside world renowned casinos, entertainment resorts, commercial and shopping complexes. Behind her veil of modern buildings and bustles, Singapore's still keep her memories of the grand events that she had seen. Reminders of these distant memories still lingers in the buildings that stood from the past.

Built in an era of colonial powers, three of such places shared a similar context; similar functions - productions. Dempsey Hill used to be barracks which produced soldiers of ranks, loyal to the British Empire; Hwa Chong Institution Clock Tower was, and still is, part of the premises of a reputable school that produced generations of capable individuals, and the Old Ford Factory produced Ford mortorcars in the old days. All three witnessed the glory of the British Empire, and its downfall during WW2, where the invading Japanese brutally trampled pride and dignity of the British colonial powers, with the harsh oppression of the innocents.

Today, the buildings are still standing but served different purposes. Except for the Clock Tower which is still a heritage icon, Dempsey Hill was converted into a haven for retail outlets and restaurants, whilst the Ford Factory is now a museum. The Clock Tower may continue to serve its purpose, but Dempsey Hill and Old Ford Factory face uncertain future in a land scarce nation where much of the old buildings of their era had been bulldozed in the name of development. So make your trip down and indulge yourself in the remnants of the colonial charms!

How to get there!

A: The Old Chinese High School Clock Tower
B: National Archives of Singapore, Old Ford Motor Factory
C: Dempsey Hill, REDSEA Gallery

Old Chinese High School Clock Tower

Other than her famous nature reserve, Bukit Timah is also noted for her collection of reputable schools. Hwa Chong Institution is one such famous school in Singapore. Nestled in this school stands a prominent clock tower which had seen it all, and the historical events which took place beneath and beyond its building premises.



This is not a mere clock tower, for it is the embodiment of the soul of the school that had been revered in high esteem among generations of students.

Cloaked in freshest coat of paints and dome-shape roof with beautiful colonnades, you would never believe that this grandfather was born in 1925 by Swan and Maclaren Architects (oldest architectural firm in Singapore, which also designed Raffles Hotel, Victoria Memorial Hall etc). You would also be surprised that this Renaissance-inspired tower blends so perfectly with the decor and designs of the buildings at both of his sides, and much more surpised that he has a name called “The Chinese High School Clock Tower Building” when he was gazetted as a national monument. In case you are confused, “The Chinese High School” is the former name of Hwa Chong Institution, and yes, this clock tower represents a school with strong affliliation to Chinese culture.


Well, it is indeed an awestruck to find a Chinese school represented by a marvelous Western architecture, but this marriage between West and East was not always a smooth sailing one. In the olden days before the Sixties, the curriculum and ideas were shadows of Mighty China, where within the vicinity of the Clock Tower the ideas of anti-colonialism and Marxism claimed their existence in the minds of some intellectuals-educators or students. Even beneath the layers of paints stood the bricks and steels which told grim stories of war episodes during WW2, where this 3.1metres clock tower was valued as a position for Allied Forces, and later it fell into the hands of the invaders which used it as their haven for war atrocities.

Today, this grandfather is still standing tall, overlooking the prided institution it had guarded for more than eighty years. It is certainly worth to visit, for you will be stunned by the silent stories it has to offer.

The Old Ford Motor Factory

Built in October 1941, the Ford motor factory is the first motor car factory in South-East Asia.

It was built for the manufacturing of Ford motor cars. However, little did anyone know that fate has other plans for it. WW2 broke out shortly after and the factory was converted into a military plant, assembling military aircraft. After the fall of Singapore, it became the headquarters of the Japanese. It only resumed its intended car assembling operations in 1947 till 1980. The humble factory was also the place where the British signed the treaty of surrender, making it one of Singapore’s most valuable historic sites.

Closed in 1980, only a fraction of the old Ford motor factory remains as a huge part of it was torn down in the 1990s. It was later preserved and restored in 2006. It became a national monument as the old factory witnessed the fall of Singapore.

The old Ford motor factory has a simple architectural design that looks like a hangar. With only the front façade preserved, the monument’s 3 tall windows became the iconic mark for the building. The architecture of Old Ford's Factory is art-deco form, built by Ford Motor Works. From the facade of the Old Ford Factory, one would be able to see sets of uniformed geometrical shapes. This form of architecture also reflected simplicity; especially in the year that it was built (circa 1941) happened to be in the period of WW2, where practicality was preferred under circumstances of prevalent global scarcity of resources.

Just on the edge of the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, little knew this old factory has witness Singapore’s darkest history. The historic site now archives many events during the fall of Singapore. It even hosts a replica of the treaty table, with every detailed mapped out closely, down to the last minute on the clock.



As you walk in the Ford building, a sad melancholic melody greets you as the place play out the darkest history in modern Singapore. Many artefacts such as the WW2 pistol, rifles, grenades, water bottle and even a toothbrush are on display. It creates a very war-torn feel as you walk pass these remains.





Following the trail, the archives document chronologically the events, from the war to the fall, from the fall to the suffering of the people. It has many extracts, official documents and replicas preserved carefully. It takes hours to read everything. As one reads, don’t expect a sugary walk down memory lane. Instead, expect a dark feeling of hope and despair during the fall of Singapore. There are pictures and photos of torture, documents of the ridiculous inflation of the banana money and even guerrillas that resisted the Japanese army.










Walking through the trail, and coming out of the building, you might see Singapore in a different light. History and culture back then was not talking about ERPs, foreign workers or even public housing. It instead gives you a sense of awe at the people who stood united through every ordeal. Commoners with no education worked hard and we see that Singapore’s peace, so admired by others, should not be taken for granted. Consequently, after the fall of the Japanese, the unity in suffering brought about much anti-colonialism feelings and led to the independence of Singapore.

Dempsey Hill, REDSEA Gallery

In the recent years, Dempsey Hill transformed into a popular chill-out attraction for locals. Located a stone's throw away from the Singapore Botanical Gardens, Dempsey Hill is a safe haven for locals and tourist alike to seek refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city life here in the metropolitan Singapore. Besides F&B establishments such as Jones the Grocer and The Prime Society, Dempsey Hill has also become the destination for art fanatics. The hill is littered with shops dealing in antiquities and fine living like Woody Antique House and John Erdos with the REDSEA gallery among them. Art galleries like REDSEA presents a range of contemporary artwork such as sculptures and paintings done by artists from worldwide thus making it worth a visit for all art lovers. And currently, 'MOMENTS' by French artist Val is on display.



REDSEA gallery was established in 2001 and has become one of the most visited art galleries in Singapore. The gallery space was formally known as the British army barracks about a century ago as well as the old CMPB national service enlistment centre where it was the headquarters for young Singaporean soldiers serving their national duty in the 1970s. The area was also a nutmeg plantation in the old days.
Barracks in Dempsey Hill (left) vs Marlborough Barracks in Dublin (right)



The gallery, similar the other establishments here in Dempsey Hill is located in Brit-shed-styled barracks which existed since the colonial times. They are similar to those of the West in terms of architecture and materials used to build them such as concrete, bricks, wood and roof tiles. Almost all that were found are preserved and restored to keep history intact. Today, these former army barracks house dining and retail outlets of Asian themes as it brings together heritages from all parts of the region.

MOMENTS – the artwork that was on display at REDSEA gallery is by French art-ist/sculptor, Val. Having been self taught and instinctive, her works emote raw emotions and give great insight into her thoughts given when creating those works of art. The pieces on display always feature human figure(s) on which the emotions and thoughts of the artist were focused on. And by careful observations by the visitor, they are able to sense the messages Val is trying to convey through her works.

There was a particular piece that was named 'Corridor'. It featured 2 figures going in opposite directions walking in an overlapping corridor looking at each other. This pieced showed the prevalence of self-doubt in all of us and our constant search for our true self. Coupled with the location of where the gallery was, one is able to contemplate on the artworks found here at REDSEA. Dempsey hill is truly a place for art aficionados to come and soak themselves in the atmosphere created by the union of both creation of man and nature.